When we think of a volcano, the first images that come to mind are related to its most spectacular manifestations, its eruptions. An imaginary of strength, power and majesty that makes this incredible phenomenon of nature hypnotic and fascinating. What is less often thought of is, on the other hand, the "maternal" character of the volcano which is best expressed in the fertility it gives to its soils. Volcanic soils are, in fact, extremely mineralized soils, rich in elements of vital importance for plants and, in particular, for vineyards. Volcanic viticulture is a vein in great growth and expansion at an international level, but also endowed with great attraction in our country. What differentiates and characterizes Italian volcanic wines is, in fact, their origin from historicized vines, not cultivated with an industrial approach.
Among the best known areas in Italy for the production of volcanic wines we must certainly mention the area of Soave in the Veronese area, the Euganean Hills in the Po Valley, the Vulture in the Lucano area, Vesuvius and the Campi Flegrei area in the Campania region, Etna , Pantelleria and the Sicilian volcanic archipelagos. An authentic, artisanal and heroic viticulture, therefore, the result of a centuries-old work of modeling the territory through imposing terraces, which in Sicily is celebrated on the slopes of the highest active volcano in Europe with an ancient train of the Circumetnea Railway, the Treno dei Vini of Etna. Until 31 October, the locomotive accompanies the curious, enthusiasts and wine tourists to discover the most interesting cellars in the area, surrounded by breathtaking views and caressed by the warm Mediterranean sun. We asked Eugenio Privitera, a DOC Sicilian as well as Director of the INGV Etnean Observatory in Catania, a few questions about the winning combination of wine and volcanoes.
The lava-alkaline terroir of Etna allows the cultivation of three native vines: the reds Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio and the white Carricante. What is it that, from a strictly scientific point of view, makes volcanic soil so fertile and precious for these grapes?
As a geophysicist who mainly deals with seismic signals and geophysical signals, I have to start by saying that my more expert colleagues in soil chemical compositions will forgive me if I am not extremely accurate… But yes, volcanic territories in general, not just the Etna one, are historically known for their fertility and for the abundance of alkaline and ferrous components which allow the grapes grown on these soils to be given decidedly particular aromas, impossible to find in wines from other soils with different characteristics. The high concentration of potassium, phosphorus, sulfur and magnesium makes them in fact incomparable with any other calcareous, moraine or metamorphic soil. Furthermore, soils made up of volcanic rocks have higher macro-porosity values which allow them to store large quantities of water, even in the driest seasons. Volcanic wines, therefore, including Etna wines, undoubtedly enjoy the benefits deriving from these natural characteristics.
How is volcanic soil "fertilized" by the volcano?
Whenever explosive activity occurs, the volcano naturally “fertilizes” its slopes. The explosive activity, in fact, causes a fallout of ash at the foot of the volcano which, if at first it can cause damage to the fruits that are already on the plant, in reality in the medium and long term it allows the soil to be revitalized with substances very important nutrients: it is as if the volcano periodically "refertilised" its soils and made them fertile again.
Is there any “difference” between the various volcanic soils?
Yes, there are absolutely differences: even the slightest variations in alkali or in the iron content create even significant variations in the type of volcanic soil. However, in viticulture it must be remembered that one must always keep in mind, in the first place, what is the morphology of the volcano. The greatest difference between the wines, in fact, is not so much the slightest variations in the chemical composition of the soil from which the grapes come, but rather the altitude at which the vine is planted and the exposure of the crop: the vines exposed to the North, example, they will generate wines with quite different organoleptic characteristics compared to those exposed to the South.
Would you like to get back to your place of study and work – the volcano – from a more unusual point of view, such as that of enology?
I am a great wine lover, in the past I also took a sommelier course, so the subject is quite dear to me. However, my research interests at the moment are a bit different, I think I will continue to cultivate this theme as a great passion. It being understood that, outside the working context, in reality I have never distanced myself from the "nectar of Bacchus": I continue to open bottles whenever the opportunity presents itself...
As a Sicilian volcanologist, what is the truest aspect of the relationship between a "citizen of Etna" and wine?
Well, Sicily, my Region, was historically born with a strong peasant tradition in which wine was, together with bread, a fundamental part of the diet of field workers as in addition to being a convivial drink it is in all respects a very business suit. Traditionally, therefore, we are closely tied to wine: for the "average Sicilian" (exceptions aside) there is no lunch or dinner that is not accompanied by a full glass.
Your favorite local wine?
Etna Rosso is a well-known DOC that is gradually establishing itself throughout the national territory: think that there are some Etna Rossos that have been compared to Barolo, therefore we are talking about great wine excellences that have also been recognized by the numerous awards that some local wineries have received over the years. Without wanting to name cellars, I would say that a good Etna Rosso aged in wood is certainly one of my favorite wines.
What do you recommend to combine it with?
Etna Rosso is a full-bodied wine so it goes very well with meats, especially with fairly fatty meats such as sausages and grilled meat. Here, however, we are also particularly greedy for horsemeat: we also accompany it with that!
Gallery - (c) Charley Fazio